South Africa

Port Elizabeth, South Africa: The travel is in the details

A haircut, Iron Brew, and biltong in Port Elizabeth It was raining still. Watery pellets pounded the windshield of our rental Volkswagen minivan as Pieter, our tour guide and professional hunter, searched the streets of Port Elizabeth for a barber shop. “I need a haircut,” he had told us that morning when we left our…

Postcards from the seductive edge of South Africa

Peering from the Cape of Good Hope What is it about edges that attracts us? Why do we gladly stand, albeit timidly, at the precipice of a cliff? Why the compulsion to see the very last tip of land? When all that we know for sure is safely and surely behind us, why linger at…

Why staying one night anywhere is never enough: Knysna, South Africa

Knysna wanted to tell us a story, but there simply wasn’t time. We were nearly ready to leave when the winds began howling at 34 South, the seafood eatery where we had dined on oysters, beef, beer, and cheesecake. Raindrops swiped against the plate glass windows. A gust of wind rocked the rafters. The bartender…